Sunday, November 4, 2007

Ocean 1, Jake 0


This weekend Mark and I went down to Byron Bay to meet up with two of his friends from Sydney (Damo and Chrissy) and the Ball State girls from Surfer's Paradise. I was in a bit of a funk last week and was hoping that finally getting out of Brisbane and down to Byron (Which everyone told me was amazing) would change things around and help me realize why all of you that gave me advice about being down here always said, "And I never wanted to come home."

In addition to two nights of amazing music with Xavier Rudd, SaturDAY was amazing. After waking up in a hostel dorm room that reminded me of the cold dorm of the Delt house after four hours of listening to people snore and pretending to sleep, Mark woke me up abnd told me we were going to meet Damo and Chrissy for breakky (Breakfast) and then going to the beach to surf. After pulling the trigger at breakfast, I was ready to attempt this Surfing thing.

We setup our towels at the bottom of the cliff the picture was taken from at Tallow Beach and hit the water. Mark let me use the bigger of his two boards, which is 7'10", but thin. Additionally, the waves were breaking really rapidly and were over my head, so trying to line the board up,m get on it, paddle and stand up was about as easy as taking a weekend night off from drinking in Chicago: Not gonna happen.

After we got done surfing and roasting in the sun, we went into town and looked at long boards. When I asked the lady that was working what kind of board she would recommend me looking at and told her that we were surfing Tallow Beach all morning, she started laughing and joking with Mark about how wrong it was to take me to surf there for the first time...thanks dude.

Theme of the weekend: "Too much weight, not enough displacement"
Surfing Score: Ocean 1, Jake 0

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Gorgeous view!!!

JW said...

I told you man, its not the length of the board, its the WIDTH! anyways, nice effort, good talk, and i'll cya out there